*Contains spoilers*

“The Substance” is an unsettling exploration of self-image, beauty standards and the dark side of societal expectations. Margaret Qualley and Demi Moore, under the direction of Coralie Fargeat, have one goal and that is to unsettle viewers.

From its moments of fun and beauty to scenes that are so deeply uncomfortable they make your skin crawl, the movie leaves a lingering impression on viewers – one that might feel “like someone has vomited in your brain and then tried to bleach it”, as some viewers described it upon our exit from the cinema. That is the kind of visceral reaction this film provokes.

At its core, “The Substance” is a commentary on the extreme measures people – especially women – take to fit within a warped ideal of beauty. The film follows Elizabeth and Sue – played by Demi Moore and Margaret Qualley as young and old versions of each other – as they navigate a celebrity world where the boundaries between physical appearance and reality blur, all thanks to a mysterious drug that distorts the body in nightmarish ways. It’s a film that feels like it should have come out of the mind of a gothic horror auteur, but with a modern edge.

The plot centers around Elizabeth, whose age is beginning to impact her career in entertainment, as she is trying to reclaim normalcy in her life after taking a drug that distorts her body and mind. She tries to fit in with society again, attempting to go on a date with a seemingly normal, attractive guy – only for things to spiral out of control as the substance continues to take hold of her. All along, her younger version, Sue, is building her career in entertainment. They need to switch bodies every two weeks. 

The metaphor here is clear: beauty standards are dangerous and often grotesque. Elizabeth’s struggle with her appearance and the body-altering effects of the drug are symbolic of the lengths individuals will go to in order to achieve validation from others. Her constant efforts to gain approval – particularly from men and the public – are painfully evident. “The Substance” explores how the beauty industry and the quest for male validation often encourage women to subject themselves to harmful pressures, even at the cost of their well-being. 

The film is relentlessly absurd at times. A fellow moviegoer remarked, “Why did she just gave birth to herself through her damn spine?”, loud enough for me to hear it in the cinema room. They are referencing the grotesque body contortions and the almost cartoonish transformation of the character. The absurdity of the visuals and the chilling body horror are enough to make anyone feel uneasy, yet they also emphasize the existential dread that Elizabeth is undergoing.

On the other hand, there is a certain beauty to the film’s atmosphere and cinematography. The camera work, especially in the scenes of transformation, is done with precision and care. The camera lingers on the protagonist’s disfigured body with such intimacy that it becomes almost artful – albeit deeply unsettling. There’s something poetic in how the film juxtaposes beauty and horror, revealing the ugliness in the very act of achieving perfection.

There is, of course, a new addition to the cast – men, seemingly representing the power structures that control the beauty industry. This group of “old white men” is terrifying, both in their silent dominance and their patronizing attitude. In one particularly chilling scene, one of them tells the protagonist, “Pretty girls should always smile,” a line that oozes both condescension and predatory intent. This group is both symbolic and literal: they represent the terrifying forces that determine how a woman’s worth is defined in today’s world. Their presence looms over Sue, amplifying the anxiety and paranoia that already pervades the film.

It’s worth noting how “The Substance” connects with other films of its genre, particularly “Last Night in Soho” (2021). However, unlike “Last Night in Soho”, “The Substance” embraces the grotesque with more ambition. It leans into the body horror genre, pushing the boundaries of what’s acceptable on screen in a way that feels genuinely disturbing. From boils that look like “volcanic skin” to the unsettling imagery of the characters’ bodies contorting in on itself.

For all its horror and absurdity, “The Substance” is a film that tries to say something important, and we need to sit through it and listen. It’s not just about shock value (although there’s plenty of that). It’s about challenging the influence of beauty standards and the lengths people go to in order to achieve them.

It’s not an easy watch, nor should it be.